A belated post but just updating the trip I took over the Easter break with Jim and Ian, the other 2 UK consultants our here at the moment, to Liwonde National Park and then on to Cape McClear. Well after a fairly long drive we arrived at Liwonde and found that the accommodation we had booked had actually closed about 1 year ago! As it was about 16:00 and miles from anywhere we were, to be honest, slightly concerned but in transpired that the telephone number had been taken over by somewhere called 'The Bushman's Boab' and once we found that, we did indeed have rooms. And very good they were too, a lodge in the middle of the bush which was extremely well appointed and comfortable. Excellent food provided and a great place to stay. Always dreamt of a night in the bush and this more than lived up to expectations!
Up early and on a game drive by about 07:30. Liwonde much bigger than Majete but actually seemed to more sparsely populated. We did however, see several troops of baboons, the obligatory antelope and a couple of large elephant herds, although only at a distance. To make up for the lack of mammals we saw a varied and quite large number of birds. The most striking one was what I think was a Little bee-eater and I have included a picture below.
An interesting few hours but, on reflection, I think I preferred Majete. So from Liwonde another drive of a couple of hours on to Cape MacClear, on Lake Malawi and a much hotter and more humid climate. Arrived in the middle of the afternoon tired and dirty so appreciated the air conditioned rooms and the cool shower in our beach front hotel. We decided after a stroll along the beach for about an hour, that we would eat at the hotel, and as it had a very well stocked bar the evening started early. I will skip the details except to say that an excellent meal was rounded off with a few whiskeys and, speaking for myself, a good night's sleep!
Next day Jim and I had booked a boat trip to a nearby island to possibly do some snorkeling and then go and see the fish eagles, the symbol of Malawi, feeding. We had expected a large sedate boat, but for some reason the Dutchman who booked as well wanted to go alone. I'm sure I showered that morning!!
Not to be denied a speedboat suddenly appeared and we were invited aboard and told we were going to pick up 2 more people and then go to the island. Sounded good and it was until about 30 yards form the shore the outboard motor cut out, and despite the attentions of all 3 crew members failed to restart. It soon became apparent that the current was drifting towards the middle of this 300 mile long lake, so we suggested that someone should swim ashore to get help. Better than that all 3 jumped off, as if abandoning ship and thankfully towed us to shore. After about another 20 minutes normal service was restored and we were on the island in no time. A great place to relax and I spent the morning reading and finishing the book I had started when I came out here. Decided against going in the water after reading that swimming in the lake was a great way to contract bilharzia [look it up] so just had a scramble round the rocks until lunch. After a lunch prepared by the crew of b-b-q'd fish and enough rice for about 20 people. most of which was cleared up by the ghekkos, we got back on the boat and went off to the eagles. By now it was well past lunch and to be honest the eagles were really too full to be bothered going after another small fish thrown by some tourist boat. However, one greedy individual decided to play ball and the result is here.
Another good evening, but minus the whiskeys as had booked an early start to go for a walk in to the hills behind the lake. Breakfast a 07:00 and walking by about 08;00 through the village and in to the wooded slopes of the hills. After about 2.5 hours decided I had gone far enough as it was extremely hot and humid but Ian pushed on to the top and down the other side for a round trip. I came back with one of the guides and got back to the hotel after about another hour or so. Very hot and sticky so the cool shower cam in handy again.
Ian did not appear for about another hour so I was glad I did not go with him. Anyway, after lunch we started the long drive back and got back to the house at about 17:30 exhausted but happy. A good weekend and Ian, who goes home next Wednesday had a good send off.
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